Cuba is Cuba

Fascinating, intriguing and a little bit hard work, travel to Cuba was a trip back in time to a country so close, yet ohhh so far from the rest of the modern world.

‘When Cuban’s are happy we drink rum, when we’re sad we drink rum’ explained our guide in a brimming smile as he led Ames and I on horses through tobacco farming planes outside of Vinales. Throw in a cigar or two, a lil’ salsa after dark and you can begin to create a picture of Cubans as fun loving, positive people that make the most of what they have. It’s an impression that took some time, digging, and now distance (between myself and Cuba) to form though.

Cuba feels so isolated and trapped in a time warp. Stunning colonial architecture is slowly crumbling from neglect, big old classic cars rule the road (bellowing thick black smoke after manya’ backyard mechanic patch up) dodging horses and carts that work to make up the transport shortfall in a country with no new cars. The 1950s live on with memories of revolution, Che Guevara and other icons of revolution and the triumph of socialism refreshed daily on billboards, newspapers and in political address. This land and its people have and continue to be shaped by so many unfamiliar influences.

Meanwhile your average Cuban’s day to day focus is on ways to supplement government issued rations and low wages for survival. With tourists come opportunities for entrepreneurs hitting the streets spruiking illegal taxis, paladars (‘restaurants’ in people’s homes), casas (renting a room in their home) and cigars to passing tourists.

Constant pestering from hustlers is tiresome, but just one of a number of obstacles that makes travel in Cuba a little more hard work than other places. Trade embargos mean that shops (food, clothing or anything else) are poorly stocked. Government owned travel agents try to channel travellers to big, all inclusive government owned resorts on beautiful beaches, but some of which Cubans aren’t even allowed to go to. Everywhere from restaurants and bars to exchange bureaus have terrible service and are constantly overcharging or short changing you…Things always just seem more difficult, time consuming and more awkward than they have to be. Add to this that Ames and I both got pretty sick for over a week, and lost a purse while in Cuba and it’s fair to say that all didn’t quite go to plan.

All was not lost though with many’a rum and mojito guzzled to the ever present restaurant or bar bands performing Buena Vista Social Club favourites (over and over!!). And while daily servings of pork or chicken with salty rice and beans was tiresome to say the least, delicious fresh fruit breakfasts were a great start to each day! Havana is great, big and busy. Trinidad charming, Vinales surrounded by beautiful countryside. Throw in some magic weather, diverse and spectacular scenery from lush rugged mountains to beautiful beaches and you’ve got yourself a pretty neat package!

Ames summed I up well at an early low point in Cuba when she said ‘I really want to love Cuba’. Although not the easiest place to visit (unless you go the all inclusive hotel option), Cuba’s amazing because, not inspite of all of the above!